Magellanes

Thursday pm, a week ago...

First and most difficult day is over

I am sitting in a ‘panaderia’ in Tolhuin and feel pretty lucky. I first almost thought this town hardly existed as there was just nothing here. I was cycling through the town and there were only some random houses and forest. Then I got to tourist information and was told where the campsite was. Quick and massive sandwich and I was about to go but as I was told the campsite was some kilometres outside of the town by the lake I wanted to buy some food first. I noticed a guy in front of a computer in a bakery so I simply asked him if he was also staying on the campsite. He looked at me, at my cycling shoes and asked ‘Are you a ‘cyclo-tourist’?’ And so it started. He told me I got to a paradise for cyclists. The owners of this place have two free rooms for cyclists, apparently all the food is free.

I left a hostel in Ushuaia at 9:50 on Thursday. I met some really nice people there, they all wished me good luck. After the first few km in the town, discovering how it feels to ride a bike that is over 20kg heavier I started climbing to slowly get into the mountains. The very first climbs, head wind and I was already shocked how slow I am and how hard it is to cycle. It was drizzling at times, the sun was coming out too. I got into the mountains and the trip properly started for me. Amazing views, I was alone on the road, from time to time someone would pass me in a car and use their horn to greet me. A lot of people were also waving to me – very nice and encouraging. In one of the valleys I saw my first rainbow – pretty cool feeling. After 40km I did a sandwich break and even then, sitting on the side of the road people passing by were greeting me. A bit later I passed a ski lift and then started climbing again to reach a pass. That was the moment when I decided that if I ever need to use the slowest gear on the bike it would be a very serious situation. I was climbing about 6km/h, not really faster than a person walking but still on gear 3 at the back. The wind was killing me. It then started drizzling again. The last section of that day was a long descent and flat ride to Tolhuin (the only moment I was actually being pushed by the wind).

***

This is what I managed to type from La Panaderia ‘La Union’. Then it got too ‘social’ with around 10 cyclists, a journalist, the owner Emilio. We had some pictures taken, some interviews for the local paper. I got to see my ‘room’ for the night (a big gym in the basement of the house with some cyclists there already). In the evening, after a pasta cooked by Italian cyclists and a salad prepared by an American girl we spent some time talking about the route. Apart from Tamara, this US girl, everyone was about to finish their trip as they were cycling south. We found out we were stupid enough to decide to cycle north against the wind. We got a lot of suggestions, some tips, places to stay etc. It was just great seeing all those people doing exactly the same stuff. At the same time I felt a bit weird as I was the ‘new’ kid, everything clean and neat, 100km done instead of thousands.

Quite a few of the guys were cycling in Patagonia only but there was one guy who cycled all the way from Alaska.

La Panaderia is an institution for long distance cyclists. They stay there for free, can use wi-fi, hot water included, all the food from the bakery for free. They usually help baking stuff and end up in this place for quite a few days. I’d love to stay longer (especially as the next day they were going to have an asado – barbeque) but I didn’t want to make a break after a day of cycling.

Tamara and I left Tolhuin the next day and the plan was to reach Rio Grande where Tamara had a place to stay via Couch Surfing. It was meant to be a second day for me with over 100km. It all started easy with hardly any wind and nice sun out. After first 50km we got close to the coast and got hit by the wind. It was a nightmare, 10km/h on very slow gear, pedalling even on descends. We were still 30km away from Rio Grande and it was already 5pm. After having spent the previous night with the guys and having heard all the stories we decided to hitch a ride. The main general advice of Vincent, this Swiss guy who introduced me to La Panaderia was – don’t hesitate to get a lift if the road is bad, if you don’t feel like cycling/don’t like the surrounding or the wind is making it impossible. He told us to go by bus or hitch hike the section to Porvenir as it was ugly with strong head wind.

In Rio Grande we ended up sleeping at Fernando’s flat. This is a guy who does couch-surfing and didn’t mind having me too. Great guy, nice little flat, hot shower, bikes safe, stories in the evening etc.

After the first hard day when I did 105km I woke up the next day with a mild pain in my knee. It has stayed with me till now and I don’t like it at all. I just hope it will soon disappear.

… (and then quite a few days more or less wild passed)

We left Rio Grande with a great plan to reach a penguin colony on the way from San Sebastian to Porvenir (or maybe even to Porvenir). As we started the day quite late we decided to get a lift as much as we could. A young couple took us to the border crossing, the day was nice and sunny as it was all looking promising. We then only needed to cycle 15km on ‘ripio’ (gravel road) between the Argentinean and Chilean border posts. It was against the wind and took us about 1.5h! That really made me think. We got to the Chilean side, did all the necessary stuff and started catching a lift. The wind was really bad and cold and there was no way we could cycle against it. After 2h we gave up. A hosteria on the border was full but we were told we could camp nearby. Then one of the border officers came to us to see how we were doing. He said he would find a truck for us to drive us to those bloody penguins. The colony was located about 15km south from the road to Porvenir, some 50km from San Sebastian and 100 from Porvenir. The officer didn’t manage to get anything for us but he took us around the corner of the building and showed us a space for camping. ‘We are open 24h, you can use a toilet, if you are cold at night you can come inside, we have TV, you are here protected from the wind.’ That was really great plus I had never slept so close to the border.

Next day in the morning we were again trying our luck with a lift. We were lucky and around midday got to the crossroad where we had about 15km to penguins. It took us probably 30min to do 5km (super strong side wind) to a tiny ‘village’ with a few houses. We left part of our luggage there and cycled further south. We finally got to the penguins but I’m not sure it was worth all the hassle. We saw a small colony of king penguins, around 30-40m from us. It was cool but also pricey. We got back to pick up our bags and back to the crossroad where we turned west, straight against the wind. It was just impossible to cycle. Ripio was making it pretty dangerous (loose stones, sand), the wind was just crazy. After a few hundred metres we managed to get a lift. A guy was driving back to his estancia some 30km ahead. He dropped us on the main road by a few trees forming some sort of protection against the wind. We started cooking something to have something hot to eat. I felt pretty miserable, the wind was horrible, the trees offered poor protection, everywhere around broken glass. It was to be a bag night. And then a pick-up turned up and actually stopped for us and we were saved! Two guys were coming back to Porvenir from a day of fishing. They seriously saved our asses.

We got to Porvenir on Sunday evening and the only day the ferry doesn’t go to Punta Arenas is Monday. So whether we wanted it or not we got stuck in Porvenir for 2 nights.

The town had a weird feel to it. There was nothing there but at the same time this nothing with some colourfully painted buildings, a few restaurants, one panaderia, a lot of cold wind, sea (bay) visible from any point of the town was actually pretty charming. At least to me. To some extend it resembled a seaside town from Scandinavia.

The next day 2pm ferry to Punta Arenas. We saw some dolphins jumping out of the water just next to the ferry. Punta Arenas is the biggest town in the area. I somehow failed to notice its beauty – quite possibly it just doesn’t have any.

We left the town in the morning and cycled north for about 20km. Rain clouds started forming but the wind wasn’t too bad. A van stopped just in front of us to ask us if we wanted a ride. Tamara wanted, I didn’t. Shortly after it started drizzling and I a thought crossed my mind that maybe I should have jumped in that car. It soon stopped raining and the wind disappeared – I was actually enjoying a ride. Another van passed slowly next to me and a driver was filming me on his mobile. I finally saw rhea – those emu-like big birds (not as big as emu I guess). I also saw an owl sitting on the fence post just some metres from the road. This is the advantage of riding a bike – you see more wildlife and the animals are not so scared of you. After some 50km Tamara was waiting for me in a small café. We ate a bit and carried on. Another 50km and that was it for that day. We got to Villa Tehuelche, a tiny village with one café and two small shops. We camped there for free by a local market (where all the cyclists camp as we were told). This small café just by the road was really pleasant. Most importantly it was very warm, it had a toilet and it was serving soup and tea. The windows were covered in tens or even hundreds of stickers of various travel companies and individuals on long trips (sponsored I guess as otherwise why would you have produced stickers). In the evening when we were about to leave a Polish group arrived (Logos Tours). They were as surprised to see me as I was to see them. Two guys even took some pictures with me. The next day in the morning we were having coffee there and an Explore group arrived (average age 60).

We still had 40km north, 40 west and another 60 northwest to cover before reaching Puerto Natales. The day started ok but with every 10 min the wind grew stronger. Just before the end of the first stretch it was already so strong that although from the side it was making cycling very hard. A few km before a tiny village we turned west and then my speed was not exceeding 10km/h. The only reason I kept cycling was the I knew there was this village somewhere close and that if I stopped there was nothing to hide from the wind. We finally got to this village (more a police post, a few other buildings and a small café). We ate some sandwiches and decided to get a lift ideally all the way to Puerto Natales (although I really wanted to spend this and another day and simply cycle this distance). After 1.5h waiting a small lorry stopped and took us all the way to Puerto Natales. It was late afternoon, sun still high (though the wind was freezing) and the town looked really pretty. Located just by the sea (or actually some sort of bay or fjord), surrounded by snowy mountains from almost 3 sides. Later on when I was walking through the streets I realised that I much more preferred Puerto Natales to Ushuaia.

Today we have a free day and tomorrow I go hiking in Torred del Paine park. I want to do the W – around 4-day trek. There are hundreds of people going to the park and coming back from it every day. It is still though some 150km from here.  I just need to hire a backpack and get food for those 4 days (everything in the park is super-expensive). Tamara goes to the park for 1 night and then continues north to El Calafate.

Ok, time for me to go for a walk in the town. I want to take some pictures but also eat something.

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I've written the above in the last few days. I don't like the way it all sounds, it's flat and dry. I may need to switch to Polish. Or maybe just need some more time.

More pictures will come.